Discovering Japan's vibrant coffee culture

The rain drummed steadily against the observation deck’s windows at Haneda Airport as I pulled my hoodie tighter, seeking warmth on that chilly October morning. Fresh off my flight, I had decided to indulge my aviation enthusiasm with a visit to the airport’s famous observation deck before heading to my hostel. What caught my attention, though, wasn’t the planes taxiing across the rain-soaked tarmac – it was the steady stream of people filing into a Costa Coffee shop, their hands wrapped around steaming cups, seeking refuge from the autumn chill.

Coffee at every corner #

My coffee revelation at Haneda was just the beginning. Walking through Tokyo’s streets, I found myself stopping every few blocks, amazed at the sheer variety of coffee options surrounding me. Vending machines lined the streets like silent baristas, their illuminated panels showcasing an array of coffee choices - hot, cold, black, latte, sweetened, unsweetened. But it was stepping into my first Japanese convenience store that truly left me stunned. The konbini – as they’re locally known – weren’t just quick stops for essentials; they were veritable coffee emporiums. Seven-Eleven, Lawson, and Family Mart had entire aisles dedicated to coffee beverages, each store offering their own unique selection. Glass refrigerator doors revealed rows upon rows of bottled and canned coffees – from classic black brews to elaborate seasonal flavors.

Like many, I had long imagined Japan as the quintessential tea-drinking nation, drawing comparisons to my home country India, where tea is ubiquitous. However, my 14-day adventure quickly unveiled a fascinating revelation: Japan is equally passionate about coffee, with a coffee culture that runs deep and diverse. The omnipresence of coffee in Japan was my first shock. Unlike the traditional tea stalls of India, Japan’s urban landscape is dotted with coffee options at every turn.

The coffee scene in Japan runs far deeper than vending machines and konbini cups. Walking through Tokyo’s streets, I couldn’t help but notice the sheer number of coffee chains - Starbucks, Tully’s, Duotor and these weren’t just occasional outposts – they were everywhere, and always busy. But what really caught my eye were the smaller, more artistic cafés that revealed themselves once I ventured off the main streets.

Before visiting Japan, I had a completely misguided notion. I’d pigeonholed Japan as exclusively a tea-drinking nation. While the country’s tea traditions are indeed rich and enduring, my assumption about coffee couldn’t have been more wrong. This wasn’t just a recent trend or Western influence – Japan’s relationship with coffee runs surprisingly deep.

Tokyo cafe hopping: A celebration of aesthetics & coffee #

Tokyo’s café scene is a beautiful paradox – meticulously calculated yet effortlessly cool. With just four days in the city and a long list of must-visit spots, I embarked on a whirlwind coffee tour that took me to some of the most unique and captivating cafes in the city.

From the minimalist charm of Little Nap to the industrial-chic vibes of Glitch, each space told its own story. Glitch is housed in a modern minimalist space with concrete floors, simple wooden furniture, and a prominent Probat roaster where they roast their beans in-house. The interior design reflects Japanese minimalism while maintaining an industrial coffee-roasting atmosphere. I was mesmerized by the barista’s precision as he crafted perfect concentric circles with his pour-over, every movement a testament to the art of coffee-making.

I visited Onibus, a converted traditional Japanese house turned café, where old architecture meets modern coffee culture. What makes this spot special is the second-floor seating area where customers can enjoy their coffee while watching trains glide past at eye level through the windows. This creates a uniquely Tokyo experience - the combination of traditional architecture, specialty coffee, and urban railway infrastructure.

Fuglen brought a touch of Norwegian coffee culture to a quiet Shibuya backstreet, with its mid-century modern furniture and Nordic approach to light roasts. What makes Fuglen Tokyo particularly special is its dual identity: During the day, it operates as a serious specialty coffee shop; At night, it transforms into a cocktail bar, making it a rare “day-to-night” establishment in Tokyo’s coffee scene.

All Seasons Coffee proved to be a hidden gem in Shinjuku, where the seasonal menu changes four times a year to reflect nature’s rhythm. They carefully select and roast beans to complement different weather conditions and seasonal changes. The café’s minimalist interior design follows classic Japanese aesthetics, while their in-house roasting operation maintains a focus on medium roast profiles.

Heart’s Light Coffee sits in a peaceful corner, tucked away from the area’s high-end boutiques and busy streets. They’re particularly known for their light roast approach, which aims to highlight the delicate, fruit-forward notes in their carefully sourced single-origin beans. As soon as you enter you get hit by an amazing smell of fresh coffee and cool jazzy tunes being played by an amazing sound system from the owner. What sets Heart’s Light apart is their distinctive menu that bridges Australian and Japanese coffee cultures. Their signature drink, the LSD (their take on Melbourne’s “magic” coffee), showcases this fusion perfectly.

Paddlers is a significant player in Tokyo’s specialty coffee scene with its strong connection to Portland, Oregon’s coffee culture. While the shop has made its name serving exclusively Stumptown Coffee Roasters beans - a nod to its Portland connections - it’s the vintage analog sound system that truly sets it apart. The owners are passionate about both coffee and music, specifically jazz and soul, and have created an environment where these two cultures blend seamlessly.

After hopping through Tokyo’s intimate coffee spots I ended up at an unexpected final stop: the massive Starbucks Reserve Roastery in Nakameguro. Sure, it may seem ironic to end a specialty coffee tour at a Starbucks, but this isn’t the typical chain outlet. The Starbucks Reserve Roastery in Tokyo stands as the coffee giant’s largest roastery in the world, spanning four floors across 32,000 square feet. It was designed by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, featuring a stunning origami-inspired ceiling with over 2,100 wooden blocks in a twisting pattern that represents the unfolding of coffee’s aroma. Beyond coffee, the Roastery houses Japan’s first Princi Italian bakery, a Teavana tea room offering innovative tea cocktails, and the exclusive Arriviamo cocktail bar where coffee and spirits merge. Each floor offers distinct experiences, from watching the coffee roasting process to enjoying coffee-infused cocktails, making it more than just a café.

What struck me most was the way each café carved out its own distinct personality while maintaining that unmistakably Japanese attention to detail. The real magic wasn’t in any single element, but in the way everything came together seamlessly. Looking back, my café-hopping adventure barely scratched the surface of what Tokyo’s coffee scene has to offer, but it left me with a deep appreciation for how this city manages to make every cup feel like a unique artwork.

Historical roots #

The story of coffee in Japan stretches back to the 17th century, beginning with the Dutch, who first introduced it to Japan’s Nagasaki Prefecture during the Edo period (1603–1868). Initially, coffee was a rare commodity reserved for governors, translators, and businessmen, largely due to Japan’s isolationist Sakoku policy, which limited foreign goods and cultural exchange.

When Japan opened up in the Meiji period (1868–1912), coffee began to reach a broader audience, although it remained costly and mostly accessible to the upper class. The opening of Japan’s first coffeehouse, Kahiichakan, in Tokyo in 1888 marked a turning point, sparking public curiosity despite the café’s short-lived success. By the Taisyo period (1912–1926), coffee had found a foothold with the younger generation, thanks to Café Paulista, which served affordable Brazilian coffee, broadening its appeal.

In 1933, Tadao Ueshima, the “Father of Coffee in Japan,” launched his company, Ueshima Tadao Shoten, which eventually revolutionized Japan’s coffee industry by developing canned coffee in the 1960s. World War II had temporarily halted Japan’s coffee imports, but by the 1960s, coffee culture surged back, fuelled by an increasing fascination with Western lifestyle and products.

Coffeenomics #

Japan is the world’s fourth-largest coffee consumer, with annual consumption reaching approximately 7.5 million 60-kg bags – that’s roughly 450,000 tons of coffee. In the global coffee economy, Japan stands out as a remarkable powerhouse, generating $35.4 billion in revenue and securing its position as the second-largest coffee market worldwide. What makes this particularly fascinating is the significant gap between Japan and the market leader – while the United States leads with $85 billion, Japan’s market is more than double that of third-placed Brazil ($30.5 billion). This isn’t just about consumption; it’s a testament to Japan’s premium coffee culture. Despite being just the fourth-largest consumer by volume, Japan’s second-place position in revenue reflects its sophisticated market where quality commands higher prices. The Japanese consumer’s willingness to pay premium prices for quality coffee experiences – from canned coffee to artisanal brews – has created a market where value significantly outpaces volume. (Source: https://www.statista.com/forecasts/758662/revenue-of-the-coffee-market-worldwide-by-country)

Japan’s coffee leadership in Asia #

Japan stands out as the leading coffee consumer in Asia. What makes Japan’s position particularly interesting is how it stands out in the “development-population matrix” of Asian coffee consumption. While populous nations like China and India are still developing their coffee cultures, Japan has long established itself as a mature coffee market. Together with South Korea, Japan accounts for 21.8% of Asia & Oceania’s total coffee consumption, with the two nations collectively consuming 9.8 million 60-kg bags in 2022/23.

However, Japan’s coffee landscape is experiencing some changes. Unlike emerging Asian markets such as Indonesia, the Philippines, and India, which saw a combined growth of 12.4%, Japan has been witnessing a gradual decline in consumption. This trend is largely attributed to demographic challenges rather than cultural shifts – Japan’s aging and shrinking population has been a key factor in this decline since 2016, even as coffee remains deeply embedded in Japanese daily life.

(Source: International Coffee Organization - December 2023 Coffee Report & Outlook : https://icocoffee.org/documents/cy2023-24/Coffee_Report_and_Outlook_December_2023_ICO.pdf )

Importing the bean #

Despite its massive appetite for coffee, Japan produces virtually none of its own beans. While a handful of experimental farms have attempted coffee cultivation, their output is more of a novelty than a commercial venture. Instead, Japan stands as one of the world’s major coffee importers.

Japan’s coffee import landscape is dominated by Brazil, which supplies nearly half of the country’s green coffee beans. In November 2023 alone, Brazil exported over 11.7 million kilograms to Japan, more than twice the volume of the second-largest supplier, Vietnam, which shipped about 5.2 million kilograms. Ethiopia and Colombia each contributed around 2.1 million kilograms, while Indonesia rounded out the top five with nearly one million kilograms. This import pattern reflects Japan’s diverse sourcing strategy, combining high-volume Brazilian beans with specialty coffees from various origins to meet its sophisticated coffee market demands. (Source: https://www.coffee.ajca.or.jp/english/pdf/e-import202311.pdf)

Green Tea & Coffee: A harmonious coexistence #

Interestingly, the rise of coffee hasn’t diminished Japan’s love for green tea. If anything, it has created a beautiful coexistence. In Japan’s diverse beverage market, coffee has carved out a remarkable position, standing second only to green tea among non-alcoholic drinks. While RTD (ready-to-drink) teas remain the undisputed leader, commanding a 78% regular consumption rate, coffee has become deeply woven into daily Japanese life.

Source: https://www.statista.com/statistics/880011/japan-popular-non-alcoholic-beverages/

Everywhere I turned during my stay, I encountered the familiar sight of green tea bottles. Every convenience store’s refrigerated section was dominated by an impressive array of tea brands – Ito En, Suntory, and Kirin leading the charge with their signature products like Oi Ocha and Ayataka. RTD green tea seamlessly bridges traditional tea culture with contemporary convenience. The Japanese have managed to preserve the essence of their tea heritage while making it instantly accessible. Whether it’s businesspeople grabbing a bottle for their commute or tourists like me needing refreshment, RTD green tea serves as the go-to thirst quencher.

Matcha, the finely powdered green tea revered for its vibrant color and distinct taste, holds a deep, storied connection to Japan’s culture, history, and identity. Unlike regular green tea, where leaves are steeped and discarded, matcha involves consuming the entire leaf, which results in higher nutrient intake and a more robust flavor profile. While traditional matcha remains deeply rooted in ceremonial practices, its modern interpretations – from creamy matcha lattes to matcha-flavored desserts – have created a new dimension of appreciation.

The matcha latte has solidified its place in cafes and kitchens alike. Made by mixing whisked matcha with steamed milk, this drink is creamy, indulgent, and energizing without being overly stimulating.

Japan’s coffee culture is a perfect mix of tradition and innovation. From vending machine cans to meticulously crafted pour-overs, Japan’s coffee scene perfectly embodies the nation’s pursuit of perfection. Even the subtle addition of green tea to coffee showcases the nation’s flair for experimentation. It’s a culture that has taken a foreign drink and transformed it into something uniquely Japanese.